October 25, 2017


This was the topic of three cosmetics symposium organised by Mérieux NutriSciences in Italy (in Padova on May 30th, in Milano on Sept 20th, and in Roma on Oct 11th).  



These symposiums aimed to expose how Mérieux NutriSciences can support client with safety, efficacy, consumer and sensory research evaluations of cosmetic products to be launched on the market. It is crucial to find the right combination of integrated services to satisfy cosmetic customers (compliant with regulatory, robust scientific evidences, scientifically proof, appealing to the users). The cosmetic Industry needs to substantiate the claims by using in vivo and in vitro experimental studies, consumer perception tests. These hybrids approaches can provide stronger proof of the real efficacy and safety of their products. Instrumental approach for skin evaluation (digital imaging FrameSCAN®, EvaTHERM, SEM, skin scanner dermaTOP BLUE) and functional approaches were presented by Mérieux Nutrisciences Italy (Chiara Chiaratti and Federica d’Abrosca INT.E.GRA). Alessandra De Martino from Biofortis Mérieux Nutrisciences talked about an innovative topic the ‘Microbiome and Skin health’. She explained how much it is important to develop products respectful of skin microbiome to maintain the skin health. ‘We co-habit with our microbes and we should preserve the skin microbiota equilibrium to preserve the good physiology of our skin’. Skin microbiome is involved in barrier integrity and homeostasis, in defense against pathogens and enhancement of the immune system. The important criteria for the design of robust study and methodologies for evaluating the effect of product on skin flora were presented. Hybrid approach with advanced inferential statistical analysis on skin microbiome combined with clinical and sensorial evaluation on volunteers or consumer insight represent a task-force for safety and efficacy claims. Skin flora evaluation is also a useful parameter for sub-population characterization and for biomarker discoveries toward skin microbiome-derived therapies. L’Oreal, J&J, Pierre Fabre, Avène, Unilever, Procter & Gamble are private driver companies for skin microbiome research. An increasing number of microbiome-derived products emerged on the market, such as Mother Dirth (Ao Biome), Lipikar AP+ (La Roche Posay), Melatogenine AOX probiotics (Gallinée), Xerocalm A.D. (Avène), the Happy bacteria set (Gallinée),  Prophylactic (Mirra), Staphefekt (Gladskin). This talk explained how Next Generation Sequencing (NGS) represents an innovative approach for quality controls of the product (alteration flora, probiotics stability).


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Related article: 


Take care of your microbiome for healthy skin and scalp

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As part of Mérieux NutriSciences, Biofortis supports the food and health industries by conducting research projects with a unique nutrition and analytical service. A one-stop shop CRO offering innovative services including clinical assessments, microbiota-related research, sensory evaluation and consumer studies.


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